Lined garment and process of making the same.



.J. WlLLlAMS. LINED GARMENT AND PROCESS OF MAKiNGfTHE SAME.

APPLICATION flLED JUNE I6 1917.

m n3 1 n p A d 0w t H e t a P HY VEN TOR.

A TTORNE YS.

S J. WILLIAMS, OF 'U'IICA, NEW YORK.

1.1mm GARMENT Aim rnocnss ormaxme 'rnn same.

. Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Apr.i,1919.

Application filed June 16, 1917. Serial No.175,066.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that'I, ARAS J. WILLIAMS,

of Utica, in the county of Oneida and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Lined Garments and Processes of Making the Same; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, which will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to'the accompanying dra-wings, and to the reference-numerals marked thereon, specification.

My present invention relates to a new construction of lined garments and particularly to a new form of seam for such garments and the process of making the same.

The purpose of my present invention is to provide a' new and improved form of conholding such garment portions together with the face of the cloth of said portions toward each other and with the said row of stitches spaced from the piping so as to leave a projecting strip of cloth and lining upon each portion beyond said seam and upon the inside of the garment, said projecting portions preferably bein pressed back fiat upon their own portions 0 the garment. A further purpose of my invention is to point out a process or method of making a garment having the construction above mentioned.

A further purpose of my invention is to provide a garment which is attractive in appearance and workmanlike in construction and which is particularly well adapted to be a made conveniently andaccurately, y A further purpose 1s to provide a garment of such construction-that it may he made without additional labor or with even less labor than heretofore and will present a finished appearance and yet be susceptible of 'being readily altered in the seams without endangering the. fit of the garment and which form part of this ished garment.

tive position of the lining and the main cloth. I

A further purpose of my invention is to particularly without disarranging the relaprovide and point out methods of making a garment and the seams thereof having the advantages and constructions above mentioned.

,Figure 1 shows the inside of a. suit coat embodying my invention. 7

Fig. 2 is a plan view upon an enlarged scale of the inside of aportion of a garment andseamembodying my invention.

F1g. 3 ls'a sectional view upon line 3.-3 of Fig 2.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view through a piece of cloth and a pieceof linin havin their edges bound-together by piplng to or-m a garment portion accordlng to my invention.

Fig. 5 is a sectional view through two garment-portlons after they, have been sewed together but before they have been spread out into the position they occupyinthe fin- While have shown my invention in Fig. 1 as applied to an ordinary lined suit coat, it will be understood that my invention is not limited to suit coats, but is applied broadly .to lined coats, lined over-coats and other. garments.

Referring to the drawings in a more particular description, it will be seen that I have shown in Fig. 1 an ordinary suit coat havlng several main garment-portions 8, 9, 10 and 11 meanin thereby the main portions or outside fabric 12 or 12" of the coat and a substantially correspondingly shaped piece of lining 13 or 13 which portions are tobe brought together and fastened to each other near their edges by the main seams ofthe garment such as at the sides of the garment ,uniting said portions, but it will be understood that said Figs. 2 5 illustrate my invention wherever used upon the garment and as used upon any garment.

of the garment w ich are each to be formed of a proper-shaped piece of the cloth proper their numerals illustrate the gar-g The piece of cloth 12 or 12 and the piece of lining 13 or13 for each garment-portion are brought to ether with their edges that are to help ma e the main seams closely in 5 edges of both cloth and lining and extending a short distance back upon the face or outer surface of the cloth and the face of the lining or that surface which is toward the wearer of the garment. 'The piping is secured in this position by a row of stitches 15 preferably passing through the cloth, the lining and both layers of piping.

Two garment-portions as 8 and 9 composed'respectively of cloth 12, lining 13 and 15 cloth 12 and lining 13 and each separately bound as described by piping 14, are brought together with the face of the cloth of one portion against the face of the cloth of the other portion as indicated in Fig. 5 and then securely and strongly fastened to each other by a row of stitches 16 passing completely through the lining and cloth of both portions, that is through the lining 13 and cloth 12 of portion 8 and the cloth 12 and lining 13 of portion 9. Then the seam is spread out by extending the main arment-portions in opposite directions and y extending the edge strip 8 of garment portion 8 and the edge strip 9 of garment-portion 9 likewise in opposite directions and pressing the said seam flat into the position shown in the drawings and particularly shown in crosssection in Fig. 3. The edge strips 8 and 9 are the parts that are beyond the main seam 16 or toward the edge of the said garmentportions-and toward the piping 1 1. As when the said sections were joined by said main seam the face of the cloth 12 ofgarmentportion 8 was toward the face of the cloth 12 of garment-portion 9, it will be seen that when the seam is spread out and completed as above mentioned the edge strips 8 and 9" will be on the inside of the; garment, that is toward the wearer, and will furthermore be on the inside of the garment relative to the lining of said garment or in other words between the lining proper and the wearer of the garment. These edge strips will, therefore, be in plain sight when the inside of the garment is looked at as in Figs. 1 and 2 and that is the intention and one of the advantages of my invention. It will be seen furthermore that in the ordinary embodiment of my invention these edge strips will preferably be wider than the portion of the piping upon either side of said edge strips. The completed seam, therefore, viewed from the insideof the garment will show two of these edge strips turned back in opposite directions from the row of stitches 16 and leaving in sight at each side of said row of stitches a section of the face or outer surface of the cloth 12 or 12 and therebeyond a I band of piping 14. Toward that edge of the hand of piping in view that is toward the j with my invention.

messes row of stitches 16 will be the row of stitches 15 that connects the two layers of each piece of piping and the single: layer of cloth and the single layer of lining. Beyond these bands of piping on each side of the seam the face of the lining 13 and 13 will appear.

It will be obvious that the edge strips projecting beyond the main seams and thus turned down may be of any desired extent in width and likewise that the portion of each of said strips to be covered by the piping may be varied as desired. The piping,

. the inside of the garment is looked at,- will be of sufficient width to be noticeable and in keeping with the width of the edge strips 12 or 12 'It is preferred also that the said edge strips be of such width that between the two bands of piping at each seam there will appear an appreciable width of the face or outer surface of the main cloth or fabric 12 and 12. In other words instead of the seam being concealed and unnoticeable it is made so as to be plainly visible and give a pleasing appearance to the inside of the coat in that there will usually be more or less of a contrast' between the colors and pattern of the cloth, the lining and the piping or at least of two of them.

It will be seen that a garment constructed as herein described will have its lining secured to the main cloth of the garment at each of the seams constructed in accordance heretofore constructed the lining has not been fastened to the cloth except at the side seams by an additional operation. In fact in many such full lined garments as heretofore made the seams of-the lining did not coincide with the seams of the main. fabric of the garment.

It will be seen that a garment constructed in accordance with my invention will be very substantial-and will tend to maintain its shape permanently. The lining and cloth being fastened to each other along each of the main seams, tend to decidedly strengthen each other, prevent the garment being In full lined coats as strained or becoming mis-shaped and pre vent pulling out on the seams.

Furthermore my construction is an advantageous one in that the cloth for a given garment-portion and its corresponding piece of lining are separately assembled and secured to each other at one or more of their edges by means of said piping. This operation ma be readily performed since the operator as access to the edges of both the cloth and the lining and is free to adjust them into alinement. Another reason for this operation being readily and accurately performed is that the garment-portions may sections into a complete garment. Duringthe making of the sections and the making of the garment by assembling the different sections the piping holds the lining securely in place upon the cloth. This is of special advantage'when the edges of two arment-.

portions are brought together as s own in Fig. 5 to make a main seam of a garment.

The piping then insures the lining and cloth in roper position for the main seam provides a smoother edge for handling and alining the garment-portions and in general holds each garment-portion as a unit instead of allowing them to be a separate piece of cloth and lining as would otherwise be the case. 1

' It will be seen that the binding of the .edges of the garment-portions by said piping permanently secures each piece of lining to its respective piece of cloth so that if the garment has to be altered in the making or as an, incident to its being sold or fitted a main seam may be readily undone by cuttin the row of stitches 16 as far as needed an the garment let out or brought in from either or both sides without the linin and Jcloth losing their relative position. 11 cffecting such alterations simply the row of stitches 16 will be cut and new stitches formed where needed without undoing the piping at the edge of either garment-portion unless it is desired to loosen the piping to allow of the projecting strip or strips being varied to harmonize with the alterations made. I

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

- 1. As a new article of manufacture, a lined garment having the edges of its corresponding pieces of cloth and lininginclosed.

within a relatively narrow piping and held together by rows, of stitches through said four thicknesses only, namely said cloth and lining and both thicknesses of pipin and relatively close to the edge of the clot and having the adjacent garment portions composed of 'said cloth and liningsecured to each other solely by a main row of stitches spaced back from the edges of said portions with the strips of said portions beyond said main row of stitches within the garment and e turned back in opposite directions, each upon the lining of its own portion but free from the adjacent main portion of lining and cloth, a zone of the face of the cloth being lefton the exposed sideof each of said turned-back strips'between the main row of stitches and its binding of piping.

2. The process of forming seams for lined garments which consists of placing corresponding pieces of cloth and lining together backto back with their edges Within a piece ofpiping, sewing said garinent portions together solely by seams back fromsaid bound edges and with the projecting strips on the inside of the garment and spreading out said projecting strips in opposite directions each upon thelining of its own portion but free from its adjacent main portion of lining and cloth or any part of the garment except at said main seam and leaving a zone of the face of the cloth on the exposed side 7 of each of said turned-back stri s between the main row of stitches and its inding of piping.

3. 7 he process of forming seams for lined garments which consists of placing correspondin pieces of cloth and lining together back to ack with their edges in line, inclosing both edges within a piece of iping by sewin throughsaid four layers onl said 0 0th and lining and both layers of piping relatively close to said edges,=-sewingsa1d garment portions together solely by main seams back from said bound edges and with the projecting strips on the inside of the garment and spreading out said projecting strips in oppos1te directions, each upon the lining of-its own portion but free from the adjacent main portion of lining and cloth, a

zone of the face of the cloth'x'being left .on

- the exposed side of each of saidturned-back strips between the main row of stitches and its binding of piping.

In witness whereof I have aflixed my signature, this 13th day of June 1917.

'ARAS J. WILLIAMS.

, namely 

